Floor jack - jacking points?

[db9]

Am I correct in seeing that there isn't really any good lift points for a floor jack - or jack stands.

What points are others using - the front looks like there is a pad just behind the 'K' that could be used - but then where would the jack stand go?

Anyone find a good center point in the front or back that the floor lift could pick up on and the slide in 2 stands?
(gee - front crossmembers and full frames were great on the old stuff!)

And at the back?

I guess I could put something together that would fit on the floor jack and pick up on the folded body edge as the spare tire jack does.

Any dealer guys here ? the shop lifts pick up on where?

TIA

[partypillow69]

i believe you can pick it up at the body lip. ive never had a problem lifting it this way.

[WD40]

Here's where I jack mine up from.
Also shown, is where I place the jack stands.

[Rudejake]

I do the same as WD... don't try the sill seams unless you use some blocking or something. I've tried it on others cars and its never been pretty.

[db9]

Thanks, pictures are worth a thousand word's as they say.

WD40 - how about at the back?

[WD40]

WD40 - how about at the back?
Shoot. Didn't take a picture of that.
IIRC, I put a block (2X4 on the jack to distribute the load better),
and lifted from the center of the car where the lower control arms are attached.
There's a "box" if you will, to support the inner mounting points for the rear suspension components.
That's where I lifted it from.
There's not much else back there, unfortunately.
At least, you get both sides at once by using that point.
Lemme see if I can get a pic tonight.

[Fordson]

Fact is, you need two points, not one - you have to have a lift point and a jackstand point, and due to the spread of the jackstand legs, they have to be several inches apart.

I just cut a block of oak to fit tightly in my floor jack's cradle, then cut a slot into it as deep as the body lip is high (the regular tire jack lifting point). The lip fits down into the cut (do it across the grain so the block doesn't split when you use it) and the weight is distributed over the bottom of the lip and the boxed section on both sides of the lip, and keeps the lip from folding over as it would if unsupported. Also, the wood does not mar the finish or remove paint, like a metal lifting surface would. I think some floor jacks are sold with hard plastic blocks you can customize for your car in much the same way.

Just lift at the same points indicated on your tire jack instructions - this method frees up the subframe support points under the car for the jackstands, so the jacks and the stands don't interfere with one another, as mentioned above. If all you have to do is remove a wheel and replace, and you don't need a jackstand, this method is fast and easy - no peering around under the car.

[WD40]

Just in case you were wondering about the rear jacking point.....
There sure isn't much of a choice for jack-stand placement though.
Where I've shown them in the pic appears to be the most sturdy location.